Waiting & Wandering

The pace of life at QAU has decidedly slowed for Julia and me. After a whirlwind week of getting to know professors and students here, familiarizing ourselves with campus, and taking introductory visits to orchards, we’ve suddenly found ourselves with a lot more time on our hands. The next step in our project is to go out into the countryside and start conducting surveys and focus groups with extension agents and farmers. Planning the logistics of these visits has been left up to the professors we’re collaborating with, as it’s very difficult for foreigners to spend time in the Chinese countryside without an invitation/escort. Our collaborators have been very generous with their time, but a conference on food science and agricultural economics, featuring several South Korean speakers, has delayed working out these logistical plans.

This has meant that Julia and I have felt a little bit cooped up on campus, but it’s also meant that we’ve had some time to sit down and tidy up our research plans (like finalizing the Chinese translations of surveys). Also, I chose this time to pick up a rather nasty cold. This hurt my pride as much as anything, as it spoils my record of not getting sick in general, but especially while traveling. I think Julia had the worst deal though, because she was both anxiously awaiting news from our collaborators and trapped with a cranky layabout WHO WOULD NOT STOP WET COUGHING. Luckily I’m feeling much better now, and if that good fortune continues, we’ll be out visiting orchards again in no time.

We also took advantage of our freer schedule to have a bit of fun. The 2014 International Horticultural Expo (never heard of it before? neither had we) happens to be in Qingdao this year. We imagined that this would be something like an expanded botanical garden, when in reality it was more like a kitschy yet elaborate flower-themed amusement park. The grounds were divided into gardens with names like ‘Children’s Dream Garden’ and ‘Science Garden.’ Most entertaining by far were the ‘International Gardens’, which were an assortment of many small gardens representing different countries, with varying accuracy. Mexico, for example, was mostly giant sombrero sculptures, with a few scattered cacti. Many of these gardens also had a gift shop as their centerpiece.

In addition to the international gardens dedicated to different countries, there was also a garden dedicated to each of China’s provinces. One of the highlights of our visit was finding that the Shandong province garden featured, of course, enormous apples. (All Expo photos courtesy of Julia, as my batteries promptly died upon entering the park.)

If you look closely, there are actually 4 apples in this photo…

The whole expo was certainly a feat of landscaping, if nothing else. There were some beautiful water gardens featuring lotus blooms and lily pads, and a huge amphitheater sheltered by sweeping flowerbeds. (This is difficult to describe; see the picture please.) We spent a solid 5 or 6 hours walking around, and definitely didn’t see the whole thing. However, none of the gardens were what I would describe as traditional Chinese gardens, like those I visited in Suzhou a few years ago (which I highly recommend, if you ever get a chance to visit).

expo map

It was easy to get disoriented, so it’s a good thing maps were plentiful

frog

Aw yeah frog topiaries

marching band

I joined the wrong marching band

flower amphitheater

 

Aside from our expo adventure, we’ve also been exploring the culinary options near the university. The cafeterias on campus are decent enough, and reliably cheap (I have to work pretty hard to spend much more than $1 per meal), but do get a little monotonous after awhile. Our best discovery so far is a great hotpot restaurant just outside the university’s south gate.

For those unfamiliar, hotpot  (火锅) is a style of dining where each table has its own vat of boiling broth, and you order plates of raw ingredients to drop into the broth and make delicious soup. For example, we’ve ordered slices of beef and pork (cut paper-thin, so they cook almost immediately), prawns, crab rolls, potato slices, noodles, and many varieties of mushrooms, tofu, and leafy greens for our hotpot concoctions. The results are delicious, and the whole process is a lot of fun.

Mmmmm hotpot

That’s all the updates for now – here’s hoping the next post is more field-based!

Qingdao Agricultural University

 

My family has been threatening to post my rambling emails on the interwebs, so to prevent that I’ll give a quick summary of my first week here in Qingdao.

First, a little background on why I’m here. I’ve been working with Julia, another student in my graduate group (International Agricultural Development at UC Davis), on a research project that surveys the experiences of Chinese apple farmers. I don’t want to bore you with our entire research proposal, which basically boils down to this: Julia wants to know more about how information is shared between farmers and extension agents, and I would like to know more about the challenges faced by women farmers in China. To investigate these questions, we’ll be visiting apple orchards in Shandong and Shaanxi provinces (both in northern China).

We’ll spend a total of 10 weeks in China, 5 in each province. First up is Shandong province, where we’ve established a collaboration with Qingdao Agricultural University (QAU). This means that they’ve graciously welcomed us to China, put us up in a very comfy dorm on campus, and fed us lots of seafood and Tsingtao beer (Qingdao’s culinary signatures).

We spent the first few days getting acquainted with the QAU campus and meeting professors and students in the pomology department. This included a full day listening to graduating students present their theses to the department (in Chinese). I was able to feed Julia very useful information (“Now they’re talking about the results… they said that that bar on the graph is very tall…”) Luckily Professor Zhu translated a few more details. He also gave us English abstracts for most of the presentations, and asked us to work on editing them, which we’ll probably continue to do over the next few weeks.

We’ve also made two overnight trips to nearby counties to visit three apple orchards and one nursery. The first trip was to Wendeng (way out on the tip of the Shandong peninsula), and the second was to Qixia (one of the highest apple-producing regions in the world). These were somewhat preliminary visits to familiarize Julia and me with what orchards actually look like and what’s being practiced (compared to what we read while in the US). We’ve also been consulting with professors and graduate students at QAU, finalizing methods and translating surveys. Hopefully we should have a schedule of villages to visit (and a team of Chinese students to work with us) and we’ll be able to collect our first set of data!

That’s the basics of what we’ve been up to in the last week – I’ll try to fill in some more of the details soon!

Stray thoughts:

  • The last time I was in China I was part of a language-immersive study abroad program in Hangzhou. My Chinese language skills improved tremendously during that program, but I also spent most of the semester in the company of classmates whose skills were far more advanced than mine, and teachers who always pushed me to do better. I haven’t practiced Chinese very often in the three years since graduation, so my current Chinese skills are truly mediocre. However, the expectations for Americans are still mercifully low here, so every time I speak some broken Chinese it’s greeted with effusive praise. If I ask for dou jiang (soy milk) at the cafeteria – “You speak so well!!” If I write two simple characters – “Your handwriting is beautiful!!!” I don’t believe it for a second, but it’s a nice ego boost.
  • Our flight from Sacramento to Beijing had a 12 hour layover in Honolulu, so Julia and I obviously decided to ditch the airport and go hang out on the beach. We also tried some Hawaiian shaved ice. Now, I had heard of shaved ice being a typically Hawaiian treat, and I had always thought this sounded pretty unimpressive – what’s so exciting about a big snow cone? I was so, so wrong. Shaved ice is a magnificent mountain of heavenly frozen delight. It’s a big scoop of ice cream buried in a tower of fluffy shaved ice and drizzled with actual fruit juice syrups (not the artificial technicolor midway stuff) and sweetened condensed milk. It is fabulous, and so refreshing. We have another layover in Honolulu on the trip home, and I will probably spend the entire time eating shaved ice.
  • A tour of the pomology lab included a trip to the tissue culture room, which brought back a rush of memories of doing tissue culture at Peking University seven years ago.
  • New foods that I have tried so far: jellyfish, silkworms, really wonderful dumplings filled with locust tree flowers, fried balls of taro and sweet potato.
  • There are badminton courts right outside our dorm – so naturally I promptly bought rackets and birdies and coerced Julia into playing with me.